At the right-hand bank of de Vallée de la Marne – in Fleury la Rivière to be precise – you will find Champagne Démière. It is a grower that I overlooked while writing my Dossier Meunier. They are a member of the Meunier Institut and they have a lot of cuvées that are monocepage or predominated by Pinot Meunier. Soléra 23 is a perpetual reserve with wines that are over 20 years old. I already had tasted the still wine version of it which was fabulous so I had no doubt that the sparkling version has even more to offer.
Lovely golden color in the glass with a very refined effervescence and nice tears. This wine seemed shy at first so we decanted it and I’m happy we did! The nose is very complex, noble and polished with lanolin, beeswax, peanut oil, caramelized apple and pear, quince cheese, candied figs, papaya, honey, freshly baked croissants, a hint of leather and a very special but pleasant herbal touch. The mouthfeel is rich but shows also structure and freshness. On the palate you get candied fruits with figs, oranges, lemon together with white chocolate, raspberry, a hint of papaya, yellow kiwi and an almost Gewürztraminer overtone without being to sweet. The long finish lingers all that fruit together with an oily nuttiness and a hint of brandy. Delightful!
Rating: 89 points