Chartogne-Taillet: Les Barres 2008

Made of 100% Pinot Meunier. Honey colored with a soft effervescence and lovely mousse. On the nose you get paint, rancio, yellow kiwi, dried apricot, turmeric, raisins soaked in brandy, straw, yuzu, oyster,  clay, dried flowers and a little bit volatile acidity of white balsamic vinigar. After a while in the glass the aroma went completely flat and muted but surprisingly returned revealing even more complexity after a longer period of time. We swapped the Zalto white wine with a Jamesse Grand Champagne. It was more vinous with notes of polishing wax, mushroom, chichory root and breadcrust but also more fruity revealing fleshy tropical fruits reminiscent of jackfruit and a maillard reaction aroma of roastbeef. It actually eminded me a lot of a matured Selosse Initial. The mouthfeel is bold and vinous. The flavor has a Normandian apple cider character showing lots of maturity and rustic yeasts, the kiwi from the nose returns together with jackfruit and a hint of toffee. The flavor complexity expands a lot in your mouth when you slurp projecting delicious pink grapefruit. On the mid palate you get chalk and clay-like mineral accents and salinity, quite exceptional. Very long finish with pink grapefruit, lemon zest, white pepper, dried oignon, sumak and saffron. Very evolved for a 2008, a year that has the reputation to be the new 1996. I would never have guessed that this was a mono-cepage Meunier if I had this blind. This wine needs the right dish this to be fully appreciated. To drink now, a point.

Rating: 85 points